Audio Dart Master
Wall Stand Support Page

 

When you open the box for the stand, you will find a lot of paper and two plastic pipe structures.  The smaller, lighter bundle is the toe board.   Be careful of the two sharp screws that stick out of the ends.  The larger, heavier structure is the dart stand. Set the stand aside and start with the toe board.

Take off the rubber band, and push together each piece connected together with shock cord.  If you shake it, it will practically assemble it self.  When you are done, you will have two 8-foot long poles and a two-foot larger pipe between them with a bump in the middle.   Set this aside and assemble the stand.

It is easier to construct the stand on the floor lying on its back.   
The top is a C shaped piece with a bolt sticking out of the middle.   
The bottom is the most complex piece with several elbows and several Tee joints.  Find the top piece and start from there.

It is all held together with shock cord, so all you have to do is push together the pieces connected together with cord.  Occasionally, the shock cord from different pieces will get twisted together when you unpack the box, and you will have to untwist it.  The front feet are held with rubber bands.  When everything else is assembled, put the front feet together and attach them to the empty Tee joints in the middle of the stand.

It is easiest to mount the dart board to the stand while it is lying on the floor.  There are four bolts in the pieces at the top of the stand.  Disconnect the top piece from the side pieces.  Now insert the bottom bolt in the hole in the middle of the bottom of the dart board.  Then insert the two side bolts.  Put the top bolt in part way.  It will go in the rest of the way when you re-attach the top piece of the stand.

You can now stand it up and press all the joints tightly together.  It is designed to be stable leaning against a wall.  Call us for modifications, if you need to have it free-standing.

Lastly, with a Phillips head screwdriver, attach the toe board to the stand.  You will find holes for the screws in the middle of the elbow joint at the bottom of the tall vertical sides.

When you are playing, the bump in the middle of the toe board tells you where the middle is.  You can press it with your toe to find your position.  It may be helpful to tape the toe board to the floor to stop it from moving sideways.

Depending on what kind of wall you have, and how thick the molding is at the bottom, you may want to put some kind of padding behind the dart board to stop it from banging against the wall, when darts are thrown.  Some people also like to put something around the dart board to protect the wall from stray darts.

When not in use, you can fold the toe board up against the stand to get it out of the way.  If your ceiling is less than eight feet tall, you can either bend the side poles to fit, wedge it against the ceiling, or take apart one of the joints in the side poles so that it folds.  Velcro tabs are included to help hold it up.

 

 

Assembly Instructions - Needed only if you cut the shock cord:

  1. THE FRAME AT THE TOP:  Find the four pieces with screws sticking out of them;  these make up the frame around the dart board.  The C-shaped piece is the top, the straight pieces are the sides and the piece with all the Ts is the bottom.  Stick the screws in the straight pieces into the holes in the side of the dart board.  The shorter end of the straight pieces should be up.  Put the screw on the C-shaped piece in the top hole of the dart board and press it into the side pieces.  Then put the bottom screw into the dart board and assemble the rectangular frame around the dart board.
  2. THE BASE: The largest, most complicated piece is the base.  Some of the joints move so it can fold for shipping.  The large C should sit on the floor with two short pipes sticking up at each end.  Two slightly longer pipes should stick up on the opposite side.
  3. THE LADDER:  Find a H-piece (a pipe with one T at each end) and attach both ends to the short pipes on the base.  Then find two straight pieces (pipes with no fittings) and put them into the two up-facing holes on the H-piece.  Then put the other H-piece on the top end of the upper straight pieces, and put two more straight pieces on top of that.
  4. THE DIAGONAL LEGS:  Find the four pieces that are straight, but have a straight pipe fitting at one end.  Put two of them on the longer pipes sticking up from the base.  Then add the other two on top of them.
  5. JOINING TOP TO BOTTOM:  You should now have a base with a short ladder on one side and two legs sticking up on the other side.  And you should have a dart board in a frame.  All you have to do is fit the outer holes on the bottom of the frame onto the top of the ladder and the diagonal legs into the inner holes. If you are putting it against a wall the dart board face should be in the side with the diagonal legs.  If you want it free-standing, the dart board should face the direction of the ladder.
  6. TIGHTENING:  Press it all together.  There is enough play in the pipes to adjust the balance.

Glue:

If you do not intend to dissemble the stand, you can make it really solid with $5 of PVC pipe glue from any hardware store.  If you ever need to remove the dart board, you can remove the screws that hold it in.

 

Call for more information: call 763-383-0077
or email: AudioDartMaster@tcq.net